misspent

12/28/2006: Woke up around 6am to catch the 7:15am train from Granada to Algeciras, Spain. It was a Renfe train, but unfortunately a local one with not-as-nice seats and a freezing compartment. At least the cafeteria was open in the train station so I got some cafe con leche (espresso with foamed milk) and jugo de naranja (fresh-squeezed orange juice); the juice here is so good. I guess that is why Spain is known for its oranges.

Once into Algeciras, we bought tickets on a ferry boat to Tangier, Morocco. In the Rick Steves guidebook, Tangier is described as the Tijuana of Morocco and as the worst way to experience Morocco. We headed straight for the train station to catch a train to Fez, the ancient capital. When we arrived at the station, there were hundred of people lined up just to buy tickets. We had arrived days before the huge holiday of Eid ul Ahda. This meant everyone in Morocco was trying to find a way to their family home where a lamb will be slaughtered, cooked and eaten together. There was no way to get on a train.

A kind stranger who spoke English offered to share a cab with us to Fez. He tried to find enough people to split a cab with, but couldn´t. The cabs were also demaning high prices because of the holiday, 250 € for the 4 hour trip. The guy opted out, and rather than travel with him to a local friends house (a bit sketchy), we found a cabby on our own for about half the price.

Finally arrived in Fez haggard, close to 11pm (12am Spain time). Got to Pension Talla where a room with a private bathroom was reserved. In fact, they had nothing for us but a tiny room on the roof. Looking closely, it was a closet with a cot. Nothing we could do at this hour, we found some food at a tiny kitchen in the old medina. Had great couscous, tagine and Moroccon salad (grilled veggies). Finally, a fulfilling vegetarian meal.

Tried our best to sleep in the closet at Pension Talla, but the freezing weather put a damper on that. First night glimpses of Fez seem amazing, but more to come…

12/27: Granada is a little hippe town in the south of Spain. Right next to the hostal was a Spanish chain place called Pan (reminds me of Au Bon Pain in the U.S.). My friend Chris recommended the mozzarella tomato sandwich. In Spain when you find vegetarian food, you hold on to it. Unfortunately, they were out of that sandwich, so ended up with yet another manchego cheese sandwich. Already getting tired of these.

Then checked out the Royal Cathedral where Queen Isabel and King Ferdinand are buried. Beautiful old church, but we couldn´t go in because we were there during the wrong hours.

Then we jumped the 1€ bus to El Alhambra. Toured the various forts and castles. Saw the amazing Moorish architecture along with imagining what it would have been like when thousands of people lived inside the ancient fortress.

We then took another bus over to the San Nicolas mirador (overlook). Saw unreal views of Granada and El Aljambra from across town while listening to local musicians playing at sunset.

Finally a scenic bus ride back down the slopes to Plaza Nueva. Spent more than a desirable amount of time in a tiny internet cafe run by Pakistani Spaniards trying to book a room in Fez, Morocco (next stop). Finally someone agreed to hold a room for us, but it sounds shady. Let´s see. Hit up tapas all over Plaza Nueva and had a great last night in Granada.

12/26: Found a cafeteria (Spanish word for little restaurant) and got a manchego y tomate (cheese and tomato) sandwich. Then headed off to the Prado museum, one of the world´s finest art museums. Saw work by Goya, Velazquez, Bottocelli and others. It was amazing to see how much of the work was of Jesus´s crucificion amongst other Biblical stories. Tried to also work out exactly what the immaculate conception was (lots of paintings on this). Many people say it was Mary becoming pregnant as a virgin, but I believe from what I´ve read, it is actually how Mary was conceived without original sin.

After a great day at the Prado, walked over to the Plaza Mayor where they were selling new years wigs and masks. I guess that is the thing to do in Madrid on New Years.

In the Tourist Information booth there, you can check e-mail for free, so did that and IM´d a bit. Then ran to the Hostal Catalan for our bags and off to the train station. Had some quick tapas at the station and then boarded the lovely Renfe train to Granada. The train was late getting in, and no hostels would answer the phone. We are at an abandoned train station with nowhere to go. We share a cab with an American we meet in the station. She has a place to go. We try a few hostels from our guidebook, but no love. Finally stumble upon Hostal Austria right off Plaza Nueva and they have a great room for 35 €. Drop bags and head out and find a falafel place open late (after midnight at this point). We then explore the neighborhood but the only place open is La Taberna de Irelandia (Irish pub). Hang out with some locals there listening to American 80´s music and drinking Spanish wine. Strange scene to say the least.

12/24: Get to JFK a little over 2 hours before our flight. The line is insane, but we wait on it as they keep coming out to get people who are close to missing their flights. “London, Paris, Frankfurt…” No Barcelona. Finally get to the front of the line about 50 minutes before our flight. They tell us it is too late to get on. Argue for a while to no avail. They tell us to come back for tomorrow´s flight. We say send us to Madrid instead and they finally agree. It is nice not having any firm plans in Spain so that flying in to a different city doesn´t affect us at all.

12/25: 9am Spain time get into Madrid. Call up a random hostel in the Chueca, the gayborhood of Madrid. They have space. After a cab ride and a quick nap, we head to the Museo Reina Sofia (modern art museum) to see the Picassos and the rest. It is closed for Christmas, ouch. Walk through the Puerta del Sol and have lunch at a churro place. Not much for the veggies, but we manage. Head to Atocha train station and book tickets for Granada, our next stop. Computerized ticket booth system much like waiting on line at the NYC DMV. Pretty slick setup.

Finally walk our way back to Chueca and engage in one of my favorite Spanish activities, tapas. Tapas in case you don´t know are little plates of food. You walk into a place, order a drink (Rioja!) and a tapa. Then you finish that and move on to another place and start over. Many Spaniards are out in the evenings moving from place to place eating and drinking. A lot of fun, and a great way to explore the local neighborhood. Not a lot of vegetarian tapas, but enough to make it fun.