travels to morocco

December 29th, 2006 by arvind

12/28/2006: Woke up around 6am to catch the 7:15am train from Granada to Algeciras, Spain. It was a Renfe train, but unfortunately a local one with not-as-nice seats and a freezing compartment. At least the cafeteria was open in the train station so I got some cafe con leche (espresso with foamed milk) and jugo de naranja (fresh-squeezed orange juice); the juice here is so good. I guess that is why Spain is known for its oranges.

Once into Algeciras, we bought tickets on a ferry boat to Tangier, Morocco. In the Rick Steves guidebook, Tangier is described as the Tijuana of Morocco and as the worst way to experience Morocco. We headed straight for the train station to catch a train to Fez, the ancient capital. When we arrived at the station, there were hundred of people lined up just to buy tickets. We had arrived days before the huge holiday of Eid ul Ahda. This meant everyone in Morocco was trying to find a way to their family home where a lamb will be slaughtered, cooked and eaten together. There was no way to get on a train.

A kind stranger who spoke English offered to share a cab with us to Fez. He tried to find enough people to split a cab with, but couldn´t. The cabs were also demaning high prices because of the holiday, 250 € for the 4 hour trip. The guy opted out, and rather than travel with him to a local friends house (a bit sketchy), we found a cabby on our own for about half the price.

Finally arrived in Fez haggard, close to 11pm (12am Spain time). Got to Pension Talla where a room with a private bathroom was reserved. In fact, they had nothing for us but a tiny room on the roof. Looking closely, it was a closet with a cot. Nothing we could do at this hour, we found some food at a tiny kitchen in the old medina. Had great couscous, tagine and Moroccon salad (grilled veggies). Finally, a fulfilling vegetarian meal.

Tried our best to sleep in the closet at Pension Talla, but the freezing weather put a damper on that. First night glimpses of Fez seem amazing, but more to come…

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